Score 90/100 · Order: Dry-aged New York strip · $$$
Cowboy Star buys whole animals and ages in-house, so the steaks cost less than the Gaslamp rooms while eating just as well. The dining room is warm and unfussy. It is the pick when you want the beef to be the story rather than the scene.
Local tip: The attached butcher counter sells the same beef to cook at home for a fraction of the check.