Score 88/100 · Order: Birria taco · $4
Tacos El Paisa rides the birria wave with a recipe that tastes like it predates the trend. The beef is slow-cooked until it shreds into silky strands, then tucked into a tortilla that has been kissed with consommé and griddled until crisp. The dipping broth is dark, fragrant, and lightly oily in the best way. Add onion, cilantro, and a squeeze of lime, and the taco becomes a complete experience. The Logan Heights location is unpretentious and cash-friendly, and the line is shorter than the downtown birria spots because locals keep it to themselves.