Mariscos German

Score 89/100 · Order: Gobernador taco · $4.50

Mariscos German's gobernador is not a traditional fish taco, but it is one of the best seafood tacos in San Diego. The tortilla is griddled with cheese until crisp, then filled with shrimp, smoked marlin, peppers, and a creamy salsa. The result is a cross between a taco and a quesadilla, with a crunchy exterior and a rich, seafood-heavy interior. The flavors are bold and a little salty, and the portion is substantial. The original University Avenue truck is the most reliable, and the experience of eating it on the sidewalk is part of the appeal. It is a different category from a Baja-style fish taco, but it belongs on any serious fish taco list.

Local tip: Visit the original University Avenue truck; the mobile locations are good but the OG is the most consistent.

Score 87/100 · Order: Gobernador taco · $4.50

Mariscos German is the reason San Diego has a reputation for seafood tacos. The gobernador piles shrimp and smoked marlin onto a flour tortilla with melted cheese, peppers, and a crema-based salsa. The fish is smoky, the shrimp is snappy, and the griddle finish gives the whole thing a quesadilla-like crunch. The original truck still parks on University Avenue in City Heights, and it remains the best expression of the menu. Other locations and trucks are good, but the University truck is where the recipe was perfected. It is messy, rich, and absolutely worth a stop.