Score 89/100 · Order: Build-your-own pasta with bolognese · $$
Bencotto's format lets you match a shape to a sauce, which sounds gimmicky and works well in practice. The pasta is made in-house daily, the bolognese is properly slow-cooked, and the prices stay reasonable for the neighborhood.
Local tip: The upstairs mezzanine is quieter than the ground floor on busy nights.