Order: Rolled tacos, chorizo con huevo, beans$6–12
A century-old kitchen that still outcooks restaurants charging four times as much.
Las Cuatro Milpas has been feeding Barrio Logan since 1933 and the formula has not moved: lard-rich beans, chorizo that stains the plate orange, and tortillas pressed a few feet from your table. There is no atmosphere to speak of and that is part of the point.
Local tip: Go before 10am on a weekday or expect a line down the block; cash only.
91
Taste
95
Consistency
93
Value
97
Atmosphere
60
Uniqueness
92